TOWARD THE PROJECTS OF 2024
Projects
Rungu - Midnattsol Via Ferrata
Lavangen – Troms og Finnmark – Northern Norway
Completion: July 2023
Planning, project management and construction: Via Ferrata Experts
Routes designed by Ivo Rabanser
The Midnattsol Via Ferrata (Via Ferrata of the midnight sun) is currently the northernmost via ferrata in the world. For the team responsible (consisting of two mountain guides and two fitters), planning and implementing this via ferrata was the most significant challenge in the company's eventful history. Luggage did not get loaded on the outbound flight, and a strike in Germany, the vaunted land of accuracy meant that it only arrived in Norway a day before departure. As a result, the team only had half the safety equipment. Obtaining the missing material turned out to be an impossibility. Andrea, the female team member who worked as a fitter, had to work in her street shoes for two days in light rain. The company took over the construction of the Midnattsol Via Ferrata from an Austrian company. Unfortunately, upon arrival in Tennevoll, nobody knew precisely where the Via Ferrata was supposed to go. Erik, a helpful farmer, and entrepreneur who commissioned the climb, couldn't help either.
After the team spent a whole day looking for the start, route-setter Ivo spent another day trying to determine the best route. There was no predetermined start or exit, and the terrain beneath the Spanstinden mountain was so brittle that the Ferrata Experts team came close to abandoning the venture. Eventually, everyone agreed that the route should go on the southeast facing arête. Ivo did a lot of scaling and cleaned the terrain with great effort and a long lifting pole while Mauro, Christjan, and Andrea drilled the necessary holes, glued in anchor pins and steps, and finally tightened the steel cable. Every day, the group of four had to climb the "Midnattsoltrappa," the staircase of the midnight sun (www.midnattsoltrappa.no) first, 2217 steps every morning, and then descend again via the already-installed sections of the Via Ferrata to get to work. After more than two weeks, there was a Via Ferrata in the municipality of Lavangen. The Midnattsol Via Ferrata meanders steeply and daringly up along the southeast arête but never exceeds difficulty C. In the end, the project is impressive: a successful via ferrata, despite all the challenges during the exhausting construction phase.
Variant Stuller-Wasserfall Via Ferrata
Moos in Passeier – South Tyrol –Italy
Completion: May 2023
Project management: Via Ferrata Experts
Route designed by Erwin Mairginter
In the low-snow winter of 2023, the existing difficult variant in the upper part of the Stuller Wasserfall via ferrata was supplemented with two more sections and a total of 250 meters of steel cable installed, creating an independent, connected ascent next to the existing via ferrata. The route partly leads through overhanging rock formations and is exceedingly exhausting in sections. The customer is the Tourist Association of Passeier, which has created a great alternative to the Stuller Waterfall via ferrata. People considering this challenging variant, which they can exit in two places, should have a good portion of climbing experience and sufficient strength. A retreat, especially from the middle section, is a significantly challenging accomplishment.
Knott Via Ferrata - Extension
Unterstell – Naturnser Sonnenberg – South Tyrol –Italy
Completion: November 2022
Planning, project management and construction: Via Ferrata Experts
Routes designed by Ivo Rabanser, Christjan Ladurner and Josef Hilpold
Built in 2016, the practice-and-family Via Ferrata has been in such great demand in recent years that an expansion of the Via Ferrata park took place in the summer of 2022. After cleaning the lower left wall and receiving a positive expert opinion from the geologist, three additional routes were drilled in.Particular focus was given to keeping the two longer routes in the lower level of difficulty B but still making them interesting. In the Katharina route, a slightly overhanging steep ascent was defused with footholds. The small overhang in the neighboring route Erkki is navigated with a five-meter-long sky ladder. The new heart of the Knott Via Ferrata branches off at the start of the Erkki route.The Schwarzi route is currently the most difficult Via Ferrata route in South Tyrol. The smooth approach to the large overhang and the overhang itself, rated F difficulty, were drilled by Ivo Rabanser in two days of hard work..
The fourth, newly created route, "Daniel," runs through the right boundary wall of the Via Ferrata park and is divided into two sections. The first part of the route, which starts at the bottom and leads up to the long ladder, is in the C/D difficulty range. The last part of the well-known "Rocky" route is reached relatively easily via the ladder. On the other hand, those who climb straight ahead without stepping aids over the overhang with difficulty E need a lot of strength and good foot technique.
Larix Via Ferrata
Kurzras – Ötztal Alps – South Tyrol –Italy
Completion: July 2022
Planning, project management, and construction: Via Ferrata Experts
Route designed by Ivo Rabanser and Josef Hilpold
In 2019, mountain guide Christjan Ladurner identified a hidden gorge as the ideal terrain for a Via Ferrata project. The Kurzrasbach flows through the gorge and is not visible from the hamlet of Kurzras at the head of the Schnals Valley. Christjan made this discovery before the Alpin Arena Schnals commissioned the company Via Ferrata Experts to create the Larix Via Ferrata.
The project designers dropped the original idea of running the planned climb only as far as the first plateau below the small reservoir because the Alpine Arena Schnalstal had commissioned an adventure Via Ferrata, which was to end at the Teufelsegg Hut (Roter-Kofel chairlift mountain station). Since the natural terrain does not have many rock outcrops, identifying an appealing ascent was difficult; therefore, rope bridges, sky ladders, and fixed traverse lines connect short rock crag climbs.
The result is impressive: a varied route with the main difficulties in class C and two short climbing points in the D difficulty class. Five rope bridges, two sky ladders, and a Tyrolean traverse line posed significant challenges for the construction team.
Mauro Tumler, the metal expert of the company Via Ferrata Experts, developed a system of prefabricated metal shoes for the anchoring elements of the bridges, which were attached to the rock with the help of a specially-developed assembly jig. Subsequently, the bridge steers were placed on a long rope by helicopter directly into the metal shoes. Although there was only 5 mm of air between the shoes and the anchorages, the assembly went quickly and smoothly.
The work began in October 2021 during snowstorms and cold weather. In May 2022 – after an exceptionally low snow winter – the Via Ferrata was completed at pleasant temperatures. The construction of the Larix Via Ferrata was a very elaborate and complex undertaking due to the many artificial structures and required perfect planning.
Ultimately, more than 1000 meters of steel cable were used, including bridges, sky ladders, and the Tyrolean traverse line. The Via Ferrata, embedded in a fantastic high mountain landscape, climbs 440 meters in altitude. The route, including walking sections, is over 2 kilometers long.
The descent is via the Alpine Trail, which has been scouted and marked by Via Ferrata Experts. Red wayside crosses indicate the direction of the pleasant walk, according to the Swedish pattern, and the trail leads from the Teufelsegg hut back to Kurzras.
Pößnecker Via Ferrata renovation
Sella Group – Dolomites – South Tyrol –Italy
Completion: June 2022
Planning, project management, and construction: Via Ferrata Experts
Route designed by Ivo Rabanser and David Demetz
Constructed in 1912, the Pößnecker Via Ferrata was getting on in years. Several uncoordinated maintenance efforts on sections of the Via Ferrata resulted in a jumble of various steel cables and anchor points, some of which were hanging loosely in the wall. Above all, lengthy rope distances between the anchors in the first part of the ascent (there were still the thick original steel ropes and the hand-forged anchor points) would have resulted in grave injuries in a fall.
In January 2022, the Landesdomäne agency, upon whose grounds the Pößnecker Via Ferrata sits, ordered the route to be closed. The appealing and demanding ascent is part of the alpine history of Val Gardena, and the municipality of Selva (along with the local tourism association) tried to get permission for the general overhaul of the Via Ferrata.
Additionally, no owner appeared for the Pößnecker Via Ferrata, so the Wolkenstein Tourist Association had to step in as the keeper.
The company Via Ferrata Experts took on the contract, whereby the company delegated the meticulous planning of the delicate undertaking to the Val Gardena mountain guides and Via Ferrata builders Ivo Rabanser and David Demetz. In any case, the Via Ferrata had to retain its original character. The original hand-forged stepping aids were subjected to a static test and left in the rock. The steel cable was renewed completely, as were the anchorages. The original route was retained but adapted to the geological conditions in the rock to enable better climbing.
Special anchor rods were glued into the short, secured middle part to withstand the snow pressure in snowy winters without bending. Distances were shortened between all anchor points according to the norm; fall absorbers were also installed on the steep passages.
The renewal of the Pößnecker Via Ferrata was only possible with constant helicopter support. The experts were flown into the face in the morning and picked up again in the evening. Only in the lower part did they rappel down the Via Ferrata. The necessary material, the machines, and the power generator were flown directly into the cliff face and anchored there by the mountain guides. At the end of each working day, the bearings were repositioned with the help of the helicopter.
Thanks to the sophisticated logistics and the smooth cooperation with the helicopter company Elikos from Val Gardena, the work occurred in the shortest possible time. The old Pössnecker Via Ferrata was cut out of the wall piece-by-piece by the metal experts at Maur Tumler. In the end, four sacks of scrap metal could be flown straight out of the face into the valley.
It was always possible to climb well on the Pößnecker Via Ferrata, but the climbing pleasure has increased since the renovation.
Furcela-de-Saslonch Via-Ferrata
Langkofel Group – Dolomites – South Tyrol –Italy
Completion: September 2021
Planning, project management, and construction: Via Ferrata Experts
Route designed by Ivo Rabanser and Josef Hilpold
The rocky spur below the Langkofel notch, which lies in a magnificent setting in the heart of the Langkofel group, was explored in 2019 by the Val Gardena mountain guides Ivo Rabanser and Armin Senoner. Ivo free climbed the route so that he could secure the approximate course of the Via Ferrata with ropes.
Due to some ambiguities, the already granted permission from the landowner, the state domain, lapsed. In February 2021, Via Ferrata Experts was contacted to assist with getting the permit back. After almost six months of tough negotiations, all conditions met, and the WolkensteinTourist Office, the project's client, received approval to build the Via Ferrata.
Construction began on September 13th after the Elikos company had flown 1,500 kg of material from the Sella pass to the Langkofel notch. The logistics were relatively simple; three men from the construction team stayed at the Toni Demetz Hut near the rock spur on which the Via Ferrata runs. The valley was easy to reach with the cable car, and Ivo Rabanser, a new addition to Via Ferrata Experts and mountain guide from Val Gardena, could comfortably reach the construction site in the morning. The path was completed in just under two weeks. The rock spur looks relatively modest from a distance, but the Furcela de Saslonch Via Ferrata has many steep upswings. The overhanging passages were all defused with step aids. Five hundred meters of steel cable were installed on the Via Ferrata to create an exposed, modern, and easily accessible Via Ferrata in a fantastic setting.
Ziel Via Ferrata
Texel group – Gingglegg – South Tyrol –Italy
Completion: September 2020
Planning, project management and construction: Via Ferrata Experts
Route designed by Josef Hilpold
The client was Texelbahn-AG, which operates a cable car from Partschins to Gigglberg. Construction took a total of 16 days, with up to four specialists on-site at some times.
On the via ferrata itself, which is divided into two sections, 500 meters of steel cable were installed. The lower part of the ascent, which leads up to the Zielbach very close to the Nasereit waterfall and has difficulties up to grade B, is also suitable for families with children who like to climb. The upper part of the via ferrata is often very steep and exposed. A good climbing technique and superior upper body strength are required. Difficulties up to grade C can be found here.
The Zielbach can be crossed using either a simple zip line or a rope bridge. There is another, longer zip line at the stream. This creates an interesting adventure course for families who prefer only to walk the easier part of the route. Special anchors were used when building the bridges, and an additional 400 meters of steel cable was installed.
In the upper, more challenging part of the via ferrata, two emergency exits have also been created, via which it is possible to easily exit the via ferrata and descend back to the Zielbach.
The delivery of the material, a total of 2 tons, was accomplished by helicopter. The logistics turned out to be relatively simple. The nearby Nasereit hut, where the team that carried out the construction was housed, is accessible by car. As always, the planning and application for all permits were carried out in close cooperation with the client. This project has exemplified how important good preparatory work is. The via ferrata is located in the Texel Group Nature Park and the South Tyrol Alpine Club pulled out all the stops after construction began to prevent the work from happening. Since all the necessary permits as well as a geological and technical report were available, the construction was completed successfully despite the unnecessary turmoil and subsequent media coverage.
Triumvirate Via Ferrata
Tordrillo Mountains – Unnamed Peak – Alaska – USA
Completion: Juni 2019
Planning, project management and construction: Via Ferrata Experts
Route designed by Paul Vidalin Luke Griffith
Due to the logistics, the construction of this via ferrata has been the most complex to date. All material was imported from Europe, the bridge anchors were specially made in Europe. Triumvirate Via Ferrata is the first via ferrata in Alaska and probably the first via ferrata in North America to be built according to the new, binding EU standards of 2018 with tested material. The work was supervised, tested and approved by a US structural engineer. A total of 500 meters of steel rope were installed. There is also a short and a long rope bridge on the via ferrata. The via ferrata itself can only be reached by helicopter from Tordrillo Mountain Lodge, which is 45 minutes north of Anchorage by air. All material was transported by plane and helicopter to the construction site. The crew, comprised of three mountain guides and a qualified machinist, lived in a camp just below the small summit, and the work was completed in 16 days. The Triumvirate Via Ferrata is located in a secluded mountain area in a breathtaking setting; at the small summit, the climber is picked up by helicopter.
Securing the Hirzer notch
Hirzer – Sarntal Alps – South Tyrol – Italy
Completion July 2018
Planning and construction: Via Ferrata Experts
Route designed by Christjan Ladurner
The descent from the Hirzer notch was for a long time the most challenging section of the long-distance hiking trail E5, and many hikers reached their limits in the rocky terrain. On behalf of the Schenna Tourist Association, 100 meters of steel cable were installed and the formerly difficult key point was completely defused. The section can now be easily accomplished by experienced hikers. Three specialists worked on the project for two days with helicopter support.
Stuller-Wasserfall Via Ferrata
Passeiertal Valley – South Tyrol – Italy
Completion: Spring 2018
Project management: Via Ferrata Experts
Route designed by Erwin Mairginter
A total of 500 meters of steel rope were installed. Difficulty levels A to E. Construction time was two months, with one mountain guide working without helicopter support. The client was the municipality of Moos..
The via ferrata "Stuller Waterfall" is a climb of moderate difficulty with a very demanding variant in the middle section, which can also be bypassed. The steep and exposed ascent runs in a breathtaking setting in the immediate vicinity of a roaring waterfall. The total height of the Stuller Waterfall, the third highest in Europe, is 342 meters. After about two-thirds of the way, it is possible to break away from the ascent and descend on a footpath either to Stuls or to Moos. The last section of the via ferrata can also be completed as an independent tour from Stuls with access via said footpath.
Knott Via Ferrata
Unterstell – Naturnser Sonnenberg – South Tyrol – Italy
Completion: September 2016
Planning, project management and construction and additional route June 2018: Via Ferrata Experts
Route designed by Christjan Ladurner
Practice and family via ferrata with a total of five short routes as well as a large two-rope and a shorter single-rope bridge, two ladders and a metal climbing tree, the so-called vortex. A total of 600 meters of steel rope were installed. The total construction time was three weeks, with three specialists in action. (watch the video) Difficulty levels from B to D. The via ferrata is located in the immediate vicinity of the Unterstell cable car at the Naturnser Sonnenberg in South Tyrol, northern Italy. The client was the cable car Unterstell corporation.
The practice and family via ferrata at the Knott offers something for every taste: simple routes, challenging passages, exposed routes and technical sections, two wonderful rope bridges, a climbing tree - the so-called vortex - and two steep ladders. It is possible to practice and climb as much and as long as desired, at any time of the day, because the ascent and the descent are short. Newcomers to this sport have the opportunity to train for longer and more difficult routes. It is also suitable for families with children who would like to try their first via ferrata.
Heini-Holzer Via Ferrata
Ifinger – Sarntal Alps – South Tyrol – Italy
Completion: June 2016
Project management: Via Ferrata Experts
Route designed by Peter Vanzo
Via ferrata to the shoulder at Kleiner Ifinger above Meran. A total of six weeks of construction work for four mountain guides with helicopter support. The client was the Schenna Tourism Association.
The 500-metre-long ascent, which is optimally secured with 1000 metres of steel cable, has medium difficulty levels (A - B - B/C) and is therefore also suitable for the less experienced alpinist or for families with children who enjoy walking and climbing. An early departure, alpine experience and a good overall condition are a prerequisite for the ascent of the via ferrata. The orientation of the ascent to the southwest allows for an early climbing season start, which then extends well into late autumn. For the experienced mountaineer, the Heini-Holzer via ferrata will also be accessible during many winter months.
